Bakuchiol vs Retinol: Is the “Natural Retinol” Actually as Good?
Bakuchiol (pronounced buh-KOO-chee-ol) is one of the most talked-about skincare ingredients of the past few years. It comes from the seeds of the Psoralea corylifolia plant and is sold as a “natural retinol alternative” that supposedly does the same job without the redness and peeling. It is a bold claim, and unusually for a trending ingredient, there is a proper head-to-head trial to test it against.
What is bakuchiol?
Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound. Despite the nickname, it is not a retinoid: its chemical structure is different from vitamin A. The reason it gets compared with retinol is that early research found the two can switch on similar genes in the skin and appear to improve sun-damaged skin in similar ways.
The head-to-head trial
In a randomised, double-blind study published in the British Journal of Dermatology in 2019, 44 people used either bakuchiol 0.5% cream twice a day or retinol 0.5% cream once a day for 12 weeks. High-resolution facial photographs were taken at the start and at 4, 8 and 12 weeks, and a dermatologist who did not know which cream each person used graded pigmentation and redness.
- Both bakuchiol and retinol significantly reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation.
- There was no statistically significant difference between the two.
- Retinol users reported more facial scaling and stinging.
The authors concluded that bakuchiol was comparable with retinol for improving photoageing and was better tolerated.
Reading the result carefully
This is genuinely good news for anyone whose skin rebels against retinol, but it is one small study, so keep these limits in mind:
- 44 people over 12 weeks. That is a small, short trial. Long-term effects are not known from it.
- The dosing was different. Bakuchiol was applied twice daily and retinol once daily, so this is a comparison of two regimens rather than identical use.
- “Not significantly different” is not the same as “identical”. In a small study, modest differences can go undetected.
- It tested a 0.5% retinol cream. It says nothing about prescription retinoids, which are stronger and have a much longer evidence history in dermatology.
Who might prefer bakuchiol: people with sensitive or easily irritated skin who have struggled with retinol, or who want a lower-friction option while building tolerance. If you are already getting good results with retinol and tolerating it, there is no research here suggesting you should switch.
How to use bakuchiol
- Start gently. Even a well-tolerated ingredient can irritate some skin. Patch test and introduce it every other night at first.
- Use it morning, evening or both, following the product's directions. In the trial it was applied twice daily.
- Keep using sunscreen every day. Photoageing is driven by sun exposure, and no serum replaces SPF. See our guide to SPF.
- Be patient. The trial's results built up over 12 weeks.
Can you use bakuchiol and retinol together?
The trial compared them rather than combining them, so there is no evidence either way from this research. If your skin is sensitive, the simplest approach is to pick one and give it a full 12 weeks. If you want to use both, introduce them separately so you can tell which one is causing any irritation.
Bakuchiol in pregnancy
Retinoids are avoided in pregnancy, which is why bakuchiol is often suggested as an alternative. We have not found controlled studies of bakuchiol in pregnancy, so please check with your midwife or doctor before using it. Our pregnancy skincare guide covers the wider picture.
The bottom line
Bakuchiol is one of the few trending ingredients with a randomised, double-blind comparison behind it, and in that study it matched 0.5% retinol for wrinkles and pigmentation with less scaling and stinging. It is a credible option for people who cannot tolerate retinol. It is not proven to equal prescription retinoids, and the evidence is still a single small trial over 12 weeks.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is bakuchiol as good as retinol?
In one randomised, double-blind trial of 44 people over 12 weeks, bakuchiol 0.5% and retinol 0.5% both significantly reduced wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistically significant difference between them. It is a single small study.
Is bakuchiol gentler than retinol?
In that trial, retinol users reported more facial scaling and stinging than bakuchiol users, and the authors concluded bakuchiol was better tolerated.
Is bakuchiol a retinoid?
No. Bakuchiol is a plant-derived compound with a different chemical structure from vitamin A. It is compared with retinol because it appears to have similar effects on the skin.
Do I still need sunscreen with bakuchiol?
Yes. Sun exposure is the main driver of photoageing, and no serum replaces daily sunscreen.
Is bakuchiol safe in pregnancy?
We have not found controlled studies of bakuchiol in pregnancy. Check with your midwife or doctor before using it.
Sources
- Dhaliwal S, et al. Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing. Br J Dermatol, 2019. doi:10.1111/bjd.16918
This article is general information, not medical advice. If you have a skin or scalp condition, or you are pregnant, breastfeeding or taking medication, speak to a doctor, pharmacist or dermatologist before changing your routine.
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